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Maria's SteakCafe

In a city of increasingly long and complicated restaurant menus, Maria’s SteakCafe brings a wave of fresh air

by / Published: 16 Feb 2015

Maria's SteakCafe

In a city of increasingly long and complicated restaurant menus, Maria’s SteakCafe brings a wave of fresh air.

At the outlet on Bangsar’s Jalan Maarof (just down the road from Maybank) the concept is as straightforward as most people’s choice of main: steaks cooked well and served to let the meaty flavours speak for themselves.

That sounds obvious for a place that calls itself a steak café but with so many options for diners in the nearby Telawi district the temptation could have been to broaden affairs.

But that’s not the style at Maria’s, and even though selected other dishes make it onto the menu, the focus is squarely on the meat.

On our visit that meant the option came down to two dishes: the Australian chilled Wagyu steak and the New Zealand baby lamb cutlets. 

The initial idea was to jump straight to mains but a last-minute order (must have been the stomach talking) asked for Maria’s oxtail soup.
 
It seems the right fit for a proper steak dinner and it arrived looking and smelling as hearty and flavourful as we’d hoped. A good steak place should be able to manage an oxtail and the starter turned out to be a good decision. Meaty and peppery it’s a good way to get the mouth salivating for what’s to come. It’s rich and filling, of course, but we always knew this meal was going to be slightly indulgent.
 
 
 
 
Does it steal the thunder of the main event? Certainly not, and our steak and lamb come looking every bit as good as the pictures we’d studied online before we came.
 
The recommendation is to order steaks medium-rare but that’s slightly too red for my liking so, much to the dismay of my more discerning dining partner I shunned the advice and asked for medium. Slicing into the centre of the 250g cut it’s ideal for my tastes.
 
While I’m sure the chef prefers the meat a little juicier inside I’m quite happy with a firmer steak that’s pink, not red, in the middle and the first bite is quite delicious. Like the simplicity of the menu the cooking style here is what the café calls ‘honest’.
 
That means the steak is served with just a light seasoning of salt and pepper and the flavour is all the better for it. The meat breaks apart in the mouth with barely a chew and it provides really excellent flavour.
 
Have we had better steaks at some of the city’s big hotels? Possibly, but we’ve paid a lot more money for the privilege, too. In terms of bang — or meat — for your buck, Maria’s SteakCafe is right up there.
 
There’s room just before we go for Maria’s other speciality: tiramisu. Served in a sizeable glass (considering what we’ve already eaten anyway), the coffee dessert is sprinkled with milk chocolate shavings and is, if you’ve got the room for it, a very good end to a very good meal. 
 
 
58 Jalan Maarof, Bangsar, KL
Tel: 03–2282 2220
 
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