Broody in Bali

by Sean Conrad 1 Feb 2011
Broody in Bali

Bali and Phuket vie for the most picturesque and romantic islands in the region with both having loyal followings.

Bali wins for many because of its magical qualities crafted by nature and a feeling by all who visit that it is indeed the Island of the Gods. Bali is well known as a beach destination with Kuta Beach being considered one of the region’s best, if not the best, known beaches.

Those who venture away from the surf and sand, however, will soon discover there is much more to Bali. Steep terraced slopes in the foothills of towering volcanoes are covered with swaying fields of rice that are vibrant green or golden yellow depending upon the stage of the growing cycle.

Balinese culture, influenced by the island’s predominantly Hindu religion, dominates daily life. On most days of the year there’s a ceremony somewhere as religion still defines many daily activities of the Balinese.

While it sounds clichéd, Bali’s other great attraction is that it offers something to almost everyone.

Families with kids can frolic in the surf, teens and partygoers can dance their hearts out at places like the Hard Rock Hotel, new-agers will be spiritually enlightened in Ubud and romantic couples can seek solitude in any number of private villas or luxurious resorts scattered around the island. There are even a few eco resorts to make your friends green with envy.

And so, with the month of romance upon us, it’s the intimate retreats to which we turn our attention. Bali is home to some of the world’s leading resorts with a complete range of accommodation from secluded villas to luxurious hotel suites and all options in between.

While money may be no obstacle for some, it can be a deciding factor for others and Bali also offers accommodation to meet the needs of all travellers from a quaint losman to the best of the best.

While not all the beaches surrounding Bali are great surfing spots you can’t beat the relaxed ambience and luxurious resorts found on most. Here’s a selection of the best of the best in Bali’s key tourist destinations of Nusa Dua, Ubud, Jimbaran Beach, Legian/Seminyak and Candi Dasa Beach.

Nusa Dua—palms and reefs

While it may not be universally appealing, the tourist enclave of Nusa Dua on Bali’s southern coastline has lots of tourist options with resorts, beaches, golf courses and all the trappings of a tourist hotspot. Sandy beaches protected by an offshore coral reef are home to resorts such as The Westin Resort Nusa Dua and Amanusa.

The Conrad Bali Resort & Spa embraces contemporary Balinese architecture with rooms having views of the Indian Ocean, lagoons or manicured gardens. All rooms are decorated with colourful Balinese fabrics and primitive artwork and have a private balcony.

The Club Lounge is an exclusive oasis for discerning couples as it offers extra privacy and personalised breakfasts and sunset cocktails. All suites are located facing the Indian Ocean with picturesque views of Nusa Penida Island. The private balcony is the perfect location for a tailor-made, candle-lit dinner.

Just to the north is Benoa Beach with tranquil resorts such as the Aston Bali Resort & Spa with just 187 rooms and suites. Diehard romantics need to book the Honeymoon Suite here with its elevated seaside views, private verandah with shaded bale, Jacuzzi and sunbathing deck.

Book an outdoor table at Giorgio Italian Cuisine and let the food inspired by favourites from Piedmont and Lombardy, plus a lightly-chilled bottle of Amarone, the candles and soothing sounds of the sea, craft their magic.

Ubud—cultural heartland

It’s difficult not to notice the volcanic peaks of Mount Batur (1,717m) and Agung (3,014m) looming above the centre of the island and enshrouded in clouds. Rice fields appear in the foothills along the road leading to Ubud located at the base of the volcanic peaks.

Ubud has long been considered the heartland of Balinese culture where dance, art and music have dominated for centuries. Western artists discovered Ubud’s charm in the 1930s and brought it to the attention of a global audience.

The road from Kuta to Ubud is lined with quaint shops selling handicrafts and the villages that once concentrated on a specific craft. Many shops have become generalist souvenir outlets but some still focus on their specialist craft. Seek out villages such as Tegaltamu (stone carvings), Singapadu (masks), Celuk (silver) and Mas (wood carvings).

Ubud’s weather is cooler than the coast which helps in making it the chill-out centre of Bali. It’s less crowded here and regular visitors (and there are lots) take time for coffee, spa therapies, brunch, getting involved in cultural matters and strolling along the Ayung River or beside rice terraces.

Stay in Ubud a few days and you start to appreciate it’s the place to enjoy leisurely breakfast and lunches in one of many restaurants in and around the town. The main streets of the township are lined with galleries, boutiques and craft shops.

Café Lotus on the main street next to the temple Pura Saraswati is a personal favourite. This is one of the wellestablished restaurants and the lotus-lined temple pond next door is one of Ubud’s many tranquil retreats. Just opposite is Ary’s Warung with its contemporary design, local artwork, creative cuisine and cool cocktails.

Many visitors come for a spiritual journey involving body and mind and a range of intimate resorts now cater to their every need. Today’s smart traveller seeks out resorts and villas such as Begawan Giri Estate, Kayumanis, Alila Ubud, Amandari, Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan, Uma Ubud and the Ubud Hanging Gardens.

While the stunning pool at Alila Ubud makes it a must-stay location, a personal favourite is the secluded Chedi Club at Tanah Gajah.

With just 20 villas and suites, privacy is ensured and the picturesque setting among gardens surrounded by verdant rice fields is so typically Ubud. The 35m-long pool is jawdroppingly beautiful with its turquoise tiles and carved elephants that have water spraying out from their trunks.

The property is the former private retreat of a leading architect from Jakarta and his attention to detail is obvious. Couples can choose room options from spa suites to pool suites or for those seeking the ultimate indulgence, a two-bedroom estate with its own private pool.

From a distance, The Restaurant appears to float on a sea of rice fields and at night flickering candles set among the fields makes for one of Bali’s most romantic dining settings.

Jimbaran—beaches and bays

Jimbaran has several luxury resorts and is home to a plethora of beachside seafood restaurants that specialise in serving fresh barbecued fish caught off the beach by local fishermen. The beachside setting is unbeatable—alfresco, on the sand with the setting sun—then the stars appear; it’s a very magical setting.

A star-studded list of international luxury resorts including Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimabaran Bay (including the Jimbaran Estates) and the Ritz-Carlton Bali Resort & Spa have secured the best locations that maximize brilliant sunsets close to the water’s edge.

Jimbaran Puri Bali by Orient-Express combines the heritage of Orient-Express Hotels and the style of Balinese design and culture.

Located on a long and picturesque beach, this supremely romantic resort is possibly the best place to absorb Bali’s legendary sunsets. Arrive at Puri Bar early, order your beverage of choice and watch as fishermen bring in their live catch straight into the adjoining Nelayan Beach Restaurant.

Kick-off your shoes and book a beachside table and watch the sky turn from brilliant red to a darkness punctuated by flickering stars.

Rooms are known as residences here and the most peaceful and private rooms are the villas by the sea with their own private plunge pool situated in lush tropical gardens enclosed within white Palimanan stone walls.

Relax over a soothing massage in an open-sided beachside bale and select from a menu featuring Balinese massage and Ayurvedic therapies. Afterwards, enjoy an energetic water massage in a double whirlpool.

Seminyak—hip and cool

While Kuta is brash, bold and energetic, Seminyak is hip, cool and sophisticated. Old Bali hands moved here years ago and now a handful of smart beachside resorts and many smaller, intimate villas have flourished in the back streets.

Seminyak is a relaxed and stylish location that’s also a popular dining area. Dine in the popular Kafe Warisan located in a floodlit rice field or at La Lucciola on Seminyak’s northern beachfront with commanding seaviews to distract you over breakfast or dinner.

Ku De Ta has attained legendary status for its creative contemporary cuisine and in being a great location for socialising over a local Storm ale and being part of the rich and famous lifestyle.

Kembali Villa features private two or threebedroom villas each with their own personal butler. Each villa has its own design, character and colour scheme. Some other villas along the same luxurious lines include The Elysian, Uma Sapna and Villa Liamika.

One of the most romantic resorts is The Legian, located adjacent to the sands of Seminyak Beach. This all-suites resort has spacious rooms, open verandahs and sumptuous rooms adorned with Balinese designer detail.

Comfortable lounges around the pool cater to those who enjoy poolside lazing rather than riding the surf breaks. Be pampered with a couple’s treatment at The Spa at The Legian riding the surf breaks.

Be pampered with a couple’s treatment at The Spa at The Legian and dine on both local and Western cuisines in The Restaurant, one of Seminyak’s most romantic locations. For those who appreciate total privacy and personalised butler service, the Club at the Legian, just opposite the main resort, is a boutique, all-villa retreat to ensure you remain undisturbed.

Around the coast

There are other dreamy resorts away from the main tourist areas. Head north, beyond Seminyak to the famous Tanah Lot Temple perched on a petite rocky outcrop just offshore. The Pan Pacific Nirwana Bali Resort (formerly the Le Méridien) overlooks this spectacular setting.

Spacious landscaping covering 100 hectares and including rice fields and a Greg Norman-designed golf course make this especially appealing to couples who enjoy exercising on holidays.

Tanah Lot is one of the most visited sights on Bali but for Pan Pacific guests their exclusive sunset viewing from the golf course’s seventh hole is an added bonus.

Being isolated adds to this property’s charm and while the championship course attracts many golfers, others just come to relax by one of four pools or enjoy candle-lit dinners with temple views in the Pool Grill.

On the east coast, just south of Candi Dasa, there are two superb resorts beside the sea. Amankila and Alila Manggis are located along a somewhat rocky coastline but with facilities and dreamy pools to ensure guests stay put and totally relax in the grounds of the respective resorts.

While over an hour’s drive from Denpasar International Airport, once here guests can easily slip into gentle Balinese days of doing precious little but relaxing.

Aman Resorts need little introduction to discerning travellers who seek and receive the best service possible. Perched high above the coast, the views are without equal and the three-tiered infinity pool is inviting. Thatched guest pavilions are superbly appointed with the suites having their own private plunge pools.

Close by, Alila Manggis is the sister property of Alila Ubud and offers the same refined facilities and impeccable service. Gently refreshed by sea breezes, the pool is one of Bali’s best. Swaying coconut palms and the early morning sunrise make for a magical setting along a near-deserted beachfront.

As Julie Roberts discovered, Bali is the perfect place to eat, pray and love this Valentine’s Day.

Bali Fast Facts

Capital: Denpasar
Population: 3.89million
Currency: Rupiah (2,900 to RM1)
Getting there: Air Asia flies multiple times daily to Denpasar from KLIA LCCT

Major Re Gions

Kuta Perhaps Bali’s major tourist attraction, Kuta town is the most happening part of the island. Lounge by the sea during the day before partying all night long in the clubs.

Ubud The cultural region of Bali is also one of the most beautiful. In the centre of the island, Ubud is characterised by lush, terraced hills and its excellent arts and crafts.

Nusa Dua A more recent development located on the southern tip of Bali, Nusa Dua is host to a number of luxury five-star resorts. It’s more laid back than Kuta and perfect for lazy days on the beach.

Where to stay

NUSA DUA

Amanusa
www.amanresorts.com
Aston Bali Resort & Spa
www.astonbali.com
The Conrad Bali Resort & Spa
www.conradhotels.com
The Westin Resort Nusa Dua
www.starwoodhotels.com

UBUD

Alila Ubud
www.alilahotels.com
Amandari
www.amanresorts.com
Begawan Giri Estate
www.begawangiri.com
Chedi Club
www.ghmhotels.com
Four Seasons Resort Bali
www.fourseasons.com
Kayumanis
www.baliprivatevilla.com
Ubud Hanging Gardens
www.pansea.com
Uma Ubud
www.uma.como.bz

JIMBARAN

Ayana Resort and Spa Bali
www.ayanaresort.com

Four Seasons Resort Bali
www.fourseasons.com

Jimbaran Puri Bali by Orient-Express
www.jimbaranpuribali.com

Ritz-Carlton Bali Resort & Spa
www.ritzcarlton.com

SEMINYAK

Kembali Villa
www.kembalivillas.com

The Elysian
www.theelysian.com

The Legian
www.ghmhotels.com

Uma Sapna
www.coconuthomes.com

Villa Liamika
www.liamikavillas.com

AROUND THE COAST

Alila Manggis
www.alilahotels.com

Amankila
www.amanresorts.com

The Pan Pacific Nir
www.panpacific.com

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