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Frangipani, Bukit Bintang

by Matt Bellotti 1 Mar 2011

Long-term residents of Kuala Lumpur will have Frangipani firmly tucked in the back of their mind as somewhere for special occasions. It is certainly expensive, exclusive and has a gastronomic reputation as good as any restaurant in the country.

But sometimes it’s worth remembering just how good we are talking here and why. A recent dinner served to do just that.

The starter was an impeccable scallop with porcini mushroom dish that sizzled with flavour and intriguing textures, preparing the mouth well for the feast in front of it. Expanding the palate then with a gazpacho, the intelligence and sophistication behind the menu is immediately apparent.

All you have to do is sit back—in this magnificent, contemporary setting with famous swimming pool in the centre of the dining room and glass window directly above it, looking up at the stars—and enjoy.

The tea-smoked salmon was another example of a flavour combination that is exotic, enjoyable and unique to Frangipani. Served with salmon roe, it maintained the romantic mood established by the intimate lighting and exquisite furniture and continued by the mesmeric cuisine.

Then came the piece de resistance. The inspiration and perspiration (hard work—there was no salty trace in evidence as far as I could tell) behind the panseared foie gras with apple rendang in a strudel is breathtaking.

Rightly acclaimed as one of KL’s best dishes, this incredible creation combines textures and tastes in ways other meals can only dream of.

The strudel straddles the magnificent mouth-melting foie gras while the rendang on top brings Malaysian style to a concoction of modern French substance. In many ways it is a metaphor for the life and work of Chef Chris Bauer, the culinary genius behind Frangipani.

And in many ways it represents the reason that Frangipani continues to satisfy guests from all over the world, foodies who really understand the individuality and brilliance of Frangipani. Long may it reign.