In the first of a series of wine dinners to be hosted by Millesime, A White Affair with Hugel Wines recently kicked off on an extremely pleasant note thanks to the splendid selection of white wines paired excellently with Chef Max Chin’s culinary aptitude.

Hailing from Riquewihr, Alsace, an enchanting relic of the Middle Ages that still holds the honourable distinction of being one of the best white wine regions in Europe, Hugel et Fils have been producing wines for twelve generations.

Blessed with a microclimate that facilitates a lengthy ripening period and a multitude of combined soil types, the Hugel family estate in particular covers more than 25 hectares, exclusively in Riquewihr and almost half of which are in the Grand Cru zone.

The pre-dinner Gentil AOC 2010 was a fitting prelude, tantalising the taste buds with its delicately perfumed and refreshingly dry, fruity finish.

A blend of several varieties of grapes exclusively purchased from wine-growers under long-term contracts, the wine is a revival of an ancient Alsace tradition of “Gentil” which uses only noble or superior quality blends of Riesling, Muscat and Sylvaner.

But the star of the night was without a doubt the Vendance Tardive Gewurztraminer drawing many expressions of praise and approval. A specialty of the Hugel et Fils, the late-harvest wine made from overripe grapes known as noble rot, is bursting with lush tropical aromas and a seductively sweet finish on the palate without the cloying aftertaste; making it temptingly too easy to drink.

Paired with a decadently light foie gras crème brulee with a berry salad and pickled beets, it was the epitome of a milk and honey match.

Dubbed the ‘chopstick wines’ by guest of honour Etienne Hugel for their compatibility to many Asian dishes, Chef Max paid tribute to Hugel’s “Look East” ambitions by seasoning his French gourmet dishes with local spices and condiments.

The poached Marron lobster in particular was given an Indian twist with its curry inspired sauce peppered with granola bits; the hints of spice and cumin were soothed by the elegantly crisp and floral Gewurztraminer AOC.

The Tradition Riesling which accompanied the Golden Snapper Fillet and Gingered Cabbage with Sour Plum Madelines was in danger of being overshadowed by the myriad of flavours on the dish but the fresh, light finish that followed the almost tangy aromas held its own.

On the whole, Hugel wines proved to be a satisfying discovery of delectable sweet whites that not only serves as a chameleon of sort with food pairings but is compelling enough to stand in good stead as a dessert or cocktail wine. Vraiment enchanteur.

For information on upcoming wine dinners at Millesime contact Cynthia at 03 – 6204 9881 or visit www.millesime.my.

Hugel wines are distributed by MAGNUM Wines & Spirits Sdn Bhd. Tel: 03 – 6257 9333 www.muihua.com.my.