SPQR Bar & Restaurant

L1-14, The Weld, 76,
Jalan Raja Chulan, 50200 KL
Tel: 03–2381 2085

“Why SPQR?” I asked the barman who was dressed in black, behind his black bar, next to their blackened windows as I sat on my black stool, reading from the black menu. “It’s ROME in the Roman alphabet,” he explained.

“Ah, so it’s a theme restaurant,” I thought. Wrongly, as it goes.

SPQR is actually a modern, classy bar with a definitively above average menu. It’s not even especially Italian. They offer a few pasta dishes, but so do plenty of non-Italian restaurants and it would be worthless and unfair to compare SPQR to the likes of Nerovivo or Prego. And the décor and style present is hardly reminiscent of Ancient Rome. I’ll admit I wasn’t aware that the colour black played such a prominent role in the life and times of the Emperors Marcus Aurelius, Julius Caesar and co. Still, inappropriate though it might be to its name, the look is unquestionably classy and contemporary.

After being unable to decide on a selection from the cocktail menu and choosing a nice bottle of crisp Italian white we began the meal by sharing vegetarian spring rolls. Run-of-the-mill, I couldn’t swear that they were simply frozen but either way they were nothing special.

However, thankfully the main courses were a relative revelation.

The lamb shank was tender, moist, packed with flavour and everything you hope for in the dish. In fact, it’s one of the best around, as people who share my lament for the standard of locally served lamb would attest.

Meanwhile the steak was also excellent. The meat itself was not that special but they really nailed the cooking of it. You will, I’m sure, find better steaks in KL but not many. The sauce and vegetables accompanying it were honest and enjoyable, too.

We skipped dessert as the drinkers had moved in and SPQR made the transformation into chic, cosmopolitan nightspot. It was apparent that this is an outlet ideal for workers who need a good feed as well as a few drinks to let off steam. It doesn’t ever seem to be that busy but that will surely change once people pick up on the cool vibe and good meals on offer.

The only question left unanswered is why all the black. But then, when in Rome…