IL LIDO

Il Lido Lot 183 Jalan Mayang,
Off Jalan Yap Kwan Seng
Tel: 03–2161 2291

www.il-lido.com.my

To be a lover of Italian food during this Elysian renaissance of la cucina Italiana is akin to being a sightless person who can suddenly see again. The drought was a protracted one, during which time tapas bars and Korean restaurants proliferated like spores in a dark, moist place. Getting a proper fix of Italian food often entailed a quick trip abroad, and although there were a few Italian eateries in town, they just weren't adequate for scratching the itch.

That was then. Now, Italian restaurants-and good ones at that-are sprouting up around KL, as if in tacit complicity to address this very problem. The latest to join the fray could well be the heir to the throne. An offshoot of the original Il Lido in Singapore, KL's Il Lido has all the trademarks of a restaurant that knows where its priorities lie. From the superbly well-finished but deliberately subtle dark textures of the granite walls to the muted lighting and stark (excuse the pun) simplicity of the furniture, everything is geared towards highlighting the star of the show, and like any true star, she does not disappoint.

The food at Il Lido is a revelation and provides a succinct benchmark by which other aspiring restaurateurs can measure their gastronomic success. Whether it's the Sardinian roasted suckling pig, which is as exquisite to savour as it is tortuous to prepare (several hours' confit time, chilling, pressing, grilling and roasting are just a few of the many steps before it winds up on your pristine white plate), or the capellini with sea urchin and buffalo milk ricotta, a virtuoso symphony of textures and a masterclass in subtlety, this is Italian food at its finest.

However, just as the beauty of a radiant bride in a fine couture gown can be dimmed by the wrong shoes and accoutrements, Il Lido is only as good as the sum of its parts. Thankfully, they more than meet the grade. Service isn't just irreproachable; the floor staff are also well-spoken, helpful in a not-disgustingly obsequious way and confident of making well-considered recommendations. They don't hover but have the magical knack of appearing at exactly the moment a desire barely crystallises into a request upon your lips.

And if you needed that little nudge to tip into culinary nirvana, the extremely versatile wine list will do the trick just fine. It would not be unreasonable to surmise that Il Lido's arrival in KL won't just cause foodies to weep from joy into their truffled risotto, its gold standard as a world-class eatery will also elevate KL's burgeoning status as an international culinary destination. Il Lido, we welcome you!
FAY KHOO



Grappa

Grappa Lot G-10, Ground Floor,
avenue K, 156 Jalan Ampang, KL.
Tel: 03–2166 8088

My dinner date and I headed to avenue K where Grappa stood fresh-faced and open for business in an otherwise quiet shopping mall, furnished with billboards announcing the 'coming soon to town' designer clothes stores. A family of five were just finishing supper and a gentleman, partially obscured by his newspaper, was seated behind a curved partition of recycled green bottles that separated the front dining area from the carpeted, dark leather-chaired back lounge section.

It has a thoughtfully designed interior: contemporary glass chandeliers hung tastefully over the dining area; petit black and white prints of Italian café scenes complimented deep burgundy painted walls; and an inset of sage-leaf patterned wallpaper that sits above the picture rail.

The food was good; my dinner date chose Insalata di Salmone served with balsamic reduction and a garlicky Tuscan tomato zuppa (soup) from an uncomplicated and reasonably priced menu of Italian dishes ranging from RM9 to RM42. Grappa's pastas are not homemade, but not altogether unexpected given the RM20-25 price tag. The other diners, the Tate and Moore families from London-who had their three hour KL transit extended to a five day stay courtesy of Iceland's volcanic eruption-were very happy with their dining experience describing Grappa as “an authentic Italian restaurant” which used good-quality ingredients in its dishes.

I too enjoyed my Zuppa di Pumpkin which was both hearty and pleasantly heavy on the seared scallops. My pan roasted black cod fish on a bed of creamy cheese potatoes served with asparagus would have been perfect, but for an overwhelming butter-herb sauce.

Grappa's cheap set lunch menu makes it an excellent stop in-between shopping-particularly once the mall is fully operational-and by which time the unfriendly toilets will hopefully be renovated too. HELEN HICKEY



Vineria

Vineria Bangsar Shopping Centre, Jalan Maarof
Tel: 03–2287 7889

www.vineriait.com

From the impressive food, extensive wine list and the fiery tempers in the kitchen; Vineria is a truly Italian experience.

Tucked away in a corner of BSC, Vineria doesn't feel like a shopping mall restaurant. It has more character-helped by the cool cushioned seating on the terrace, the flailing arms of the passionate chefs in the kitchen, and the sparkling olive oil and balsamic vinegar bottles decorating the walls ... and the fact that it has steps up from the road so you don't have to search out that increasingly illusive car parking spot in the BSC car park.

First things first; the wine list. The choice is fantastic and by KL's standards, fairly priced. And to top it off the wine glasses are huge-and that is not to imply that wine is best served by the pint, but simply that there is something indulgent and appealing about drinking nice wine from a big glass!

The food has been faultless on both of my trips to this restaurant. The Brushetta Classica was precisely what it says on the tin-classic brushetta, and they get it right, without the teeth breaking crispiness that you can be subjected to in restaurants that get it wrong. Between friends and two visits we have tried and tested two pizzas. The Calzone and the Ola (bresaola, parmigiano, rocket, pomodoro and buffalo mozzarella) both of which were delicious. The Calzone was packed full of goodies and the bresaola and mozzarella topping the Ola were delicious. On to the pasta; the Pappardelle ai Funghi e Salsiccia was beautifully cooked with al dente freshly made pappardelle. The Linguine allo Scoglio was even more special, brim-full of scallops, mussels, prawns and clams. There is plenty on the menu for those who are after more than pizza or pasta-the rack of lamb roasted with eggplant paste and pecorino or the pan fried duck and fois gras sausages were tantalisingly tempting; earmarked for the next visit.

No Italian feast is complete without gelato, so it was with glee that we summoned a concoction of the pistachio, macadamia white, bourbon vanilla and cioccolato. Delizioso. LAURA WEBB



Ciao

No. 20A, Jalan Kampung Pandan,
off Jln Tun Razak
Tel: 03–9285 4827

www.ciao.com.my

Anybody who loves and knows Italian food in KL will probably be acquainted with the name Rudy Stecca. He's the pioneer who, 15 years ago, planted his pasta flag in the white sands of this land and declared that Malaysia was ready and willing to have the real deal: pastas that weren't pandering, pizzas that wouldn't make a real Italian grimace and wine that reflected good taste, not a bottom-line equation. Ciao, when he opened it, became an institution in KL and he followed with Cippola, Ciccio and even Pinchos, and Stecca's helpful hand can be seen in almost every Italian restaurant in KL. So, understandably, it was with a sense of sadness when Stecca announced that Ciao was closing last year (ironically at the height of the Italian resto boom). Like Frosty the Snowman, he promised Ciao would come back again someday but with competition what it was and a sour economy, it seemed like a wish more than a given.

Now, with the opening of the new Ciao, the prophecy has come true. The reincarnation has deftly found a home on the perimeter of the prestigious Royal Selangor Golf Club, an area that seems an odd place for a restaurant. But there's the promise of more eateries frequenting the street; expect to see a Jalan Damai type effect here.

The food of Ciao plays on Stecca's strength of Venetian origins and there are some tasty looking seafood recipes. With a nod to that, I plunged into a plate of Ravioli di Pesce (RM38), a squid ink seafood ravioli served with scallops, rucola and a creamy saffron sauce, a good marker dish to test the authenticity assumption, as well as a Carpaccio Classico (RM22). Outcome? Both dishes shone, without a doubt. The carpaccio was a perfectly sliced piece of meat with remarkably fresh rucola. The ravioli was very, very good with the saffron sauce lightly aromatic and complimentary. The cooked rucola didn't work for me; it came off as soggy spinach, but other than that all very satisfying. Welcome back Ciao, a very good start with more to follow. SAM COLEMAN



GIOVINO

32 Changkat Bukit Bintang, KL
Tel: 03–2141 1131

The contest—albeit tacit and perennially unacknowledged—to rule Changkat Bukit Bintang seems to have become a two horse race between the Flam's team of Giovanni and Sebastien, and EL Cerdo's Werner Kuhn. Thanks to this friendly rivalry, diners are now spoilt for choice, and can boast the delicious quandary of not being able to decide where to eat on the street on any given night.

And now that continental, tapas and pork-centric restaurants have been done, and done well indeed, by both sides, what's left to conquer? Ah, Italian of course. So, hot on the heels of Kuhn's Pisa, the Flam's boys have responded with the thoroughly up-for-the-challenge Giovino, a deceptively simple ground floor eatery that leads up to a magnificent first floor setting replete with contemporary honeycomb patterns and glittering chandeliers.

The menu, strictly speaking, is not Italian; there is more than a passing nod to Greek cuisine. It would be fair to say however that the Greek profferings in the menu are neither second fiddle to the Italian counterparts nor a perfunctory afterthought: the flaky filo pastries are delicious, whether you opt for the more meaty kreatopita with minced pork or the rather more sanctimonious spanakopita with spinach. Other decidedly Greek staples like dolmades and grilled baby octopi are variously nestled in the menu's cold and hot tapas sections; both are well worth a try.

Flying the Italian flag are the usual assortment of gold standards—from recommendable pasta (the amatriciana and carbonara are both drool-worthy) and meat dishes (try the wild boar in red wine and the roasted knuckles) to pork tongue in the cold tapas section and saganaki tiri (bread with melted cheese, a surefire hit with the younger—read: preadolescent—set) in the hot tapas selection.

Because of its location, Giovino is also a venue at which punters are encouraged to hang out both before, after, and in between meals. A more than ample selection of cocktails and wines ensures that everybody will leave a little more watered and a little light-headed. Delicioso! FAY KHOO



Michaelangelo's

Level 3, Pavilion KL, 168 Jalan Bukit Bintang, KL
Tel: 03–2141 1123

Oh, great. Another Italian restaurant. As if there aren't enough of those in KL. I was hardly over-enthused by this outlet before my meal, yet have to tell you it genuinely merits endorsement.

One of the few benefits of having so many other Italian restaurants within a small geographical radius is to provide a ready field of reference, an inescapable one, to be fair. And one of the best (and truest) compliments I could pass to Michaelangelo's is that it does not seem a poor relation to the likes of the Neros, Delucca, Chiaroscuro, Bar Italia et al. Each have their own specialities and distinct character and Michaelangelo's is no different.

The most notable difference is naturally its location within Pavilion KL (the outlet at Soho KL is more exclusive and intimate and sources suggest it is superior to the city centre one, but I live near Bukit Bintang so this review is based on the one there). To me, restaurants in malls at best scream 'only for lunch' and 'never for dates', but Pavilion probably deserves a little better than that, housing as it does institutions such as Al Amar, Angus Steak House and The C Club.

Michaelangelo's doesn't look totally out of place in this esteemed company. The pasta main courses—as good a way as any to benchmark Italian eateries—are tasty, wholesome, fresh and well-presented. The four cheese fettucini is suitably rich and satisfying and there was another fine use of cheese in a ravioli special; the end result soft and stringy as the good Lord intended.

With only one pizza tested I don't feel qualified to pass a comprehensive judgment on them, but the crust seems crispy, thin and delivers all you would hope for in this department. Perhaps a fresher tomato sauce would liven up the dish as my final conclusion ends somewhere around 'solid yet unspectacular'.

They cooked the lamb rack (agnello del forno) very well, although KL's inability to source genuinely excellent lamb haunts Michaelangelo's as it does just about every other restaurant here.

With a brace of pleasant desserts (gelati and panna cotta) shared, it was time to say goodbye to the mural of 'The Creation of Adam'—at least preferable as a dining companion than the winky-out 'David'—and take the short (yet long enough to pass the doors of no less than six of Michaelangelo's competitors) stroll home. MATT BELLOTTI



Favola

Favola Le Meridien KL, Jalan Stesen Sentral,
KL.
Tel: 03–2263 7434
(open daily except Saturday lunch)

www.lemeridiendining.com.my

EVERYTHING IN life, even food, is cyclical. There was a time when Italian restaurants were a dime a dozen in KL. When tapas came thundering into town, the popularity of food from la bella Italia took an unfortunate nosedive. But it's now enjoying a muchdeserved renaissance, and not a moment too soon. Le Meridien's Favola is the latest gem in the increasingly glittery crown that is Italian dining in KL, and because everything in life, even food, is cyclical, the passing of another great restaurant was necessary to make way or the birth of this one. Ergo arriverderci Al Nafourah and bienvenuto Favola. Because it is unpretentious—with whitewashed wooden beams, cosy chairs upholstered in the colours of the Mediterranean summer, and tiled floors—it immediately endears itself. Despite bold accents provided by dashing red Murano chandeliers, you get the un-mistakable feeling that this eatery is built for comfort, not speed. And in this mood, food is distinctly of the 'comfort' variety. There is no swashbuckling culinary wizardry, just good food like-a mama used to make. The welcoming bread platter augurs well for what's to follow: focaccia laced with sun-dried tomato bits is perilously more-ish, especially when paired with the daily changing dips. Beware plunging into carbohydrate heaven, because the food at Favola is worth the restraint. A nourishing but light zuppa pavese—beef consommé—is served replete with wobbly egg, parmesan and crunchy croutons, while scallops paired with risotto-like caulifl ower and topped with truffles is ideal for diners who abhor strong flavours. Main course dishes include wagyu lasagne with oozingly flavoursome braised beef cheeks sandwiched between velvety sheets of pasta, while freshly made squid-ink tagliolini, parpadelle and other pasta can be paired with classical Italian preparations like bolognese or meatballs à la polpetta. Desserts offer no surprises but are competently prepared, although the signature Illy coffee tiramisu—with zing courtesy of fi zzy chocolate bits promises to be the most distinctive interpretation of the sweet in Klang Valley today. Because it's friendly, inviting and generally fairly priced for a hotel eatery, Favola has all the trademarks of being a stayer, and we for one are glad. FAY KHOO



PIZA

50 Changkat Bukit Bintang
50200 KL
Tel: 03–2142 5670

www.wernerskl.com

You can, hopefully, understand why I was professionally sceptical when Werner Kuhn, the man who brought pork delights to the masses through El Cerdo, has now endeavoured into something completely contrarian. Sure, Kuhn went off message when he introduced his excellent tapas bar, El Cerdito as an auxiliary to El Cerdo. And yes, he's going somewhat further afield with a new resto planned, La Vaca (the cow) doing for meat what he did for pork in the city. But Italian? "You know, people don't understand that to be a master chef, you have to know all the dishes and cuisines. So yes, I know Italian and in fact I managed a number of Italian restaurants when I was a young man," he says in his typically defiant style, a man used to people doubting his abilities. With all the Italian eateries popping up, it seemed like Kuhn would—if anything—be entering a crowded field with Nerovivo, Ciccio, Chiaroscuro and Bar Italia within a three street radius.

And now, time for a bold statement, one I seldom make. Piza, the new Italian restaurant that has some of the best food I've tasted in Asia, full stop. Their Tuna Sashimi Pizza (Signature Pizza), adorned with marinated tuna sashimi slices with Arugula on tomato sauce and mozzarella, drizzled with 20 year-old balsamico (the stuff that costs hundreds of ringgit for a small bottle) and Truffle Oil, (RM46) is utterly, utterly amazing. It could be—outside of the paella I had in the Latin Quarter, Paris, 1990, one of the loveliest things I've had in my mouth. Their Pizza con Anatra Affumicato (smoked duck breast and wild mushroom on tomato sauce and cheese with 20 year-old balsamico and truffle Oil, RM46) is equally awesome, crust just right and the duck breast cooked just right; in fact their pizzas rock. But try their other dishes: the Insalata Cesare is a great one with a choice of prawns, smoked salmon or chicken breast (RM32) and their pastas and secondi courses (try the La Gamba di Agnello di Bambino con Patate di Rosmarino, roasted baby lamb leg with rosemary potatoes and cianti sauce, RM65 is terrific) and the desserts are solid (mango tiramisu anyone?). You get the picture. SAM COLEMAN



Bar Italia

29, Jalan Berangan,
Kuala Lumpur.
Tel: 03 2144 4499
Open daily 7am till late.

www.baritaliakl.com

A restaurant, bar and gelataria all rolled into one, Bar Italia is a hit for the expat crowd. Open from breakfast till late in the night, the place serves up a mean selection of antipasto, paninis and baked pastas. To mend last night's hangover, check out Bar Italia's breakfast menu, filled with freshly baked croissants, quiches, eggs and coffee. While the chic and relaxed space draws in the drinking crowd, the gelati at Bar Italia is not just there for decoration. Made the authentic Italian way, we recommend you try a scoop of the divine Italian ice cream. However, we've had complaints that the service here isn't exactly award-worthy so perhaps you should not expect too much on that front.









Sassorosso

Sassorosso, 9 Lorong Yap Kwan Seng,
50450, KL
Tel: 03-2166 6428

www.sassorosso.com.my

You only have to see the consistently loyal following in Sassorosso, especially among the expatriate foodie set to know that plenty of us have already discovered this fabulous restaurant in spite of its tucked away location off Jalan Yap Kwan Seng in the city centre.

Mind you, it only takes one visit to bookmark Sassorosso as one to return to again and again. I go back at least monthly, usually much more frequently, and will doubtless be back there again soon.

One of its best features is its intimacy. A facet that has been further strengthened by the recent addition of an impressive private meeting room. However, whether inside the room, the main restaurant area or sat outside in the pleasant al fresco seating, Sasssorosso is perfect for romantic dinners, business lunches or even private functions. The versatility of the place is underlined by excellent food and service, not to mention its clean, white, classy space.

The food is simply exquisite. Try the buffet at lunchtime. It's excellent value for money as well as offering solid quality of produce. I'm not, as a rule, a major fan of 'all you can eats' but this is one that is worth investigating. However, for me, it's the a la carte menu that is where they excel. The antipasti starters are all (yes, this is one place I can honestly say I've tried everything on the menu!) first rate, with my top tips being the buffalo mozzarella caprese and the beef breseola.

Their pastas are outstanding, the risotto light, succulent and mouth-watering. Get stuck into the duck or the steak, which are tender and perfectly complimented by fresh seasonal vegetables.
The pizzas, cooked in an outdoors wood-fired oven, are also tremendous. Crispy bases and considered toppings make for some of the best in the city. I like to spice my tandoori chicken pie up with extra chilli to guarantee a lip-smacking experience.

I would highly recommend Sassorosso as I cannot imagine anyone leaving there disappointed. MATT BELLOTTI



IL DIVO

241B Lorong Nibong,
Off Jalan Ampang, 50450 KL
Tel: 03–2145 4108

Italian restaurants are ten a penny these days so it's mystifying why restaurateurs keep turning to Italian fare—but as a friend of mine puts it: in for a penne, in for a pound. Trendy Ampang-ites will be happy to discover that the recently relocated IL Divo restaurant can now be found in their own backyard. I arrive to find a lovely redecorated bungalow with the restaurant situated on the first floor. Let's dispense with the usual 'IL Divo' band jokes—the name literally means 'The Divine'. The owners either have a high regard for their food, or are highly optimistic … I'm hoping it's the former.

You enter the restaurant by ascending a petite spiral staircase and the bartender greets you with a jolly hello. My dining companion and I choose to sit outside, overlooking an expansive garden terrace. The tiki torches are a nice touch. The unadorned menu gives me a nostalgic twinge, reminding me of the simple and stripped-down dishes that I've sampled in Rome. Many Italian restaurants tend to fancy it up; IL Divo lets the food speak for itself.

Both main courses arrived before I had time to even check my watch—the service is amiable and charming, as befits a restaurant secure in its affability. My porcini mushroom tagliatelle (homemade and their signature dish) is ample and tasty although a bit of parmesan cheese would not have gone amiss. My friend's Australian grilled tenderloin arrived at the table lovely and pink, served with a simple salad and cherry tomatoes, cooked perfectly. While there is much to enthuse about, I'll dispense with the single obligatory whine right now—a shared dessert of crème brulee is disappointing. Maybe I'm expecting something more decadent.

While restaurants that mingle quality with affordability are rare, by happenstance two have happened to arrive in convoy. Anyway, the dishes that didn't work were merely small moments in a larger evening of pleasure. As we leave, I get a glimpse of the indoor dining area—twinkling candles, pristine linen tablecloths and charming décor—I reckon I'll be eating indoors next time. SYAZLYNIA RAHIM


Tatto

No. 19, Jalan Damai,
Off Jalan Tun Razak,
50400 Kuala Lumpur
Tel: 03–2166 5212

With a lot of eateries mushrooming along Jalan Damai, it may be a little difficult to find this restaurant if you are not familiar with the neighbourhood. Pass the many Arabic restaurants and you will find Tatto just around the corner. I arrived there for a late lunch only to find it closed, but I persevered and came back at dinner time. The restaurant already had several expat diners inside.

The a la carte menu is extensive, with chef's specials to choose from as well. I decided to order the Pizza Quattro Stagioni, preferring all the ingredients to be mixed together, instead of separated into quarters. My companion ordered the baked Mulloway fish, which was recommended. Of course Italian wines are available to accompany the food.

The complementary focaccia bread was the perfect start, definitely a great munch while waiting for our main courses. The balsamic vinegar and olive oil combination was just great. The bread was really soft and saturated in oil and butter. In the background groovy music played.

I was really excited to see my pizza, especially since it was baked in an outdoor cooking area. The size was larger than expected, and I wasn't sure I would be able to finish it on my own. I ate the first slice in no time, but on my second, I noticed that the taste was a little mute; I prefer food with a bit of a flavour punch. My companion's Mulloway was also lacking that extra special something. However, with that said, I would still go backand try something An American diner next to us recommended his dish: the crab risotto with sautéed tiger prawns, it did look delicious.

The restaurant has a homey feel, the staff are friendly and the ambience is relaxed. Definitely a great place to chill and dine. SYAFIQUE SHUIB




Bubbly Brunch @ Prego

Prego, Ground Floor, The Westin Kuala Lumpur,
199 Jalan Bukit Bintang
55100 KL
Tel: 03 2773 8338

www.westindining.com.my

We've recommended Prego before, several years ago, but a recent visit made me think that - for the select few expats not already aware of the funnest quality dining experience in KL - they deserve another recommendation for their amazing 'Sunday Bubbly Brunch'.

While the Bubbly Brunch has been an institution among resident expatriates keen to take advantage of the stunning cuisine?that includes some of KL's best Italian fare such as stone baked pizzas, fresh pasta, divine salads and antipasti, and an al fresco grill of imported meats?not to mention the sheer amount of it, since it was launched in 2005, just recently The Westin Hotel have re-launched the occasion making it even more attractive and exciting.

Replacing Laurent Perrier with Veuve Clicquot is a move that demonstrates their commitment to the best of all ingredients, the famous gold label being amongst the world's most celebrated.

The in-house team has also been working hard to maintain their edge, bringing back Jelly The Clown and his balloon creations, proving that while the bubbles may indicate a grown-up occasion, this brunch is fun for all the family.

Although, the other recent addition, 'The Barber's Chair', is definitely a case of 'look but don't touch' for youngsters. Hugely popular with the guests as their food settles, the flamboyant Prego team take volunteers and cover their chests and eyes (to avoid both spillage and peeking) and pour a mixture of sweet liquor into their mouths while the watching crowd cheer them on. A first for KL as far as we're aware and from the laughter and positive reaction of the packed house (one thing that hasn't changed at Bubbly Brunch is its overwhelming popularity), it's definitely here to stay. MB




Delucca

Unit C-G-2 Ground Floor,
Office Tower, One Residency
1 Jalan Nagarasari
50250 KL

Tel: 03–2144 6545

www.delucca.com.my

As we reported last month in these pages, a veritable upswing is happening in the Italian F&B segment of the market, a clutch of new places that bear the colours of Pax Romana, the edible variety. one such eatery is the newly opened Delucca, a smart and relaxed place that has found its locale on Jalan Mesui, next to No Black Tie and Palate Palette. It's a good alley of dining and entertainment, a small eddy off the more intense river of Changkat Bukit Bintang (CBB) that many prefer, especially those in the neighbourhood. For location, Delucca is well situated, taking a cue from Neroteca and Chiaroscuro by having a high-end residency to help it drive traffic to its premises, in this case the One Residency building.

It is, however, an ambitious offering, deciding that being just another Italian restaurant with a menu that goes with it isn't enough. "We're going to have live music here, that will be something interesting," explains Firas Sowiedan, part of the Delucca ownership as well as resident workaholic. The décor plays well to this concept with a nice touch of an elevated open kitchen, part of the performance. And, I'm happy to report, the food certainly works, is adequately executed and presented. A saffron risotto (Risotto Zafferano RM40) curved on the acceptable part of the al dente meter, a near miss by having the rice too al dente to complemented by the saffron. But it made it in the end, it was tasty and had the light aromatics of the lovely crocus throughout. With the appetiser of a thick pumpkin soup this was a good segway point.

As for pastas they seem also to have succeeded here dishing out a nice array of various varieties, all ladled in ample sauces. On the night I was there I had a lovely salmon gnocchi (Gnocchi Al Salmone RM34) that was a treat, deliciously served in a white cream sauce. To top it all off a dessert of Italian apple pie (Torte Di Mele) that was the only objectionable offering. Still, a mild caveat on a very good meal with service to match. There may be a fair bit of competition for Delucca but if it can maintain this level it stands a good chance.




Modesto's

Lot G02/03/03A,
Ground floor,
CapSquare Centre, KL

Tel: 03–2697 4020

Open daily, 11am–12.30midnight

Finding an authentic, yet affordable Italian meal can be a challenge. Sure, you can go to a food court and find the Italian stall, but that's different. Hail Modesto's and their newly-opened outlet at Cap Square. The location is a little discreet, but ask around and you will find yourself in one corner of the mall.

This new outlet is a visual treat. There is an island water feature, creative feature wall, a sushi bar and a see-through wine and cigar cellar. It has an upper-class feel without being pretentious. A pleasantly chic ambience, I must admit.

The menus can be summed up as all-things Italiano, 100 per cent authentic using homemade recipes. I was recommended to try their new items such as tuna steaks in balsamic salad. Since it was my first time dining at Modesto's, I wanted to go back to basics and try their range of pizzas, which is what they are known for anyway. Since I like mine minus the veggies and what-have-you's, I settled with the Bolognese pizza. After appreciating the aroma, my first impression of the pizza was its large diameter. Food plays an important role in the Italian culture and no surprise for its large servings. The crust is thinner than what I was imagining. Nonetheless, it is rich in cheese and looks a killer with the Bolognese sauce. They are also very generous with the meat.

Since I was left with little space for dessert, I opted for I Gelati, the homemade Italian ice-cream. It is sweet and creamy alright but there is nothing to shout about as I have tasted better ice creams. The couple sitting next to me enjoyed their tiramisu and crepe. Perhaps that's a must-try. I'll return to Modesto's with an empty stomach just to try out their range of desserts.

The food is great but I will definitely return with a group of friends simply because of the coziness it brings. There's so much to try that you just have to make a trip back. If you are already a regular of Modesto's, do drop by their new outlet for a new dining experience. SS