Bombay Palace

215 Jalan Tun Razak,
Kuala Lumpur
Tel: 03-2145 4241

My first visit to Bombay Palace was many moons ago in the late 90's. Despite being a smoker at the time I was pleasantly surprised at the no smoking policy already in place at the restaurant. A bold decision in any restaurant in KL even nowadays but ten years ago showed real dedication to the cause. Over the years I have visited many times and even on occasion will grab a takeaway where the wait is always accompanied by a welcome bowl of papadums.

This day however, I was there for lunch and driving into the expansive car park I was met with the usual welcoming smile of the traditionally costumed doorman. Bombay Palace if you are not already familiar lies on Jalan Tun Razak across from the American Embassy. The imposing, traditional building still stands tall despite the modern giant apartment blocks towering overhead. In fact Bombay Palace appears like a defiant monolith from an age gone by, standing proudly and fearlessly against the onslaught of the surrounding heady development. For that reason alone I like it. For lunch I quickly chose the set menu. This is a great introduction to the variety of Indian fare resident at Bombay palace and one is not disappointed. Since I started writing this review two weeks ago (I know, I have been busy OK!) I have been back twice for takeaways and each time it's been excellent. Without going into a too detailed explanation of each dish as I've had so many the overall conclusion is that these guys know what they are doing. The vindaloo's are spicy yet not intensely so the flavour is still the winner, the chicken tandoori is moist and full of flavour and the black lentil dal is my personal favourite.

So overall it's a great safe bet for a good Indian meal. But for me it's more than just a meal. Bombay Palace has tradition, elegance and history on its side. When I eat there, these attributes are as important as the food. The little idiosyncrasies of an older KL shine through and it feels more like an event. Everything from the waiter's costumes, the unperturbed and relaxed air of the waiters, the bustle of the decorative, chandeliered lobby and the unfussy white walls all combine to give a real sense of yesteryear somehow and I like it. I am dreading the day the developers prise this little gem from our clutches and I hope the restaurant stands firm against the surrounding metal and glass monsters gradually creeping towards their doors.
GRAHAM PALING



RAVI'S BANANA LEAF

E–33A–01, Dataran 3 Two,
No 2 Jalan 19/1,
46300, Petaling Jaya
Tel: 03–7957 1441

Now here's an interesting new addition to KL's (or well, PJ's) throng of banana leaf restaurants. But, as is always key in the restaurant sector, does Ravi's Banana Leaf stand out from the various other banana leafs spread around town?

Located in Dataran 3 Two (not 32, as I was sternly told), Ravi's is really a hidden beauty (literally—it took me two hours to find the place... although that may have been due to bad navigation), at least for us KL city folk. Well-known in PJ despite only being around for a short time, Ravi's is really worth the trip for some great, authentic banana leaf food.

Let's get down to business—the food was brilliant. As you walk in, there is a large assortment of various marinated uncooked fish, chicken, prawns and squid so you can choose exactly which piece to have. I myself tried the Fried Fish Bulus (RM5/100 grams) and Fried Onion Sotong (RM8/100 grams), and it was delightful. It was cooked to perfection—not overcooked, which is quite easy to do while deep-frying, and in fact what many other banana leaf restaurants normally do. So, off to a good start then. A very good start.

That was followed by one of Ravi's specialities—Claypot Prawn Masala (RM18). And boy was it special! There was a healthy amount of prawns in a tasty and spicy curry, just the way I like it. It was served steaming hot as well; something you don't get at many other banana leafs around town.

But the best part of the meal had to be the appams (RM1 each). They were simply fantastic. They're so light and fluffy, and almost melted in your mouth. Great supplement to the meal.

As you can see, I enjoyed my culinary experience at Ravi's. However, if there's one thing I can criticise, it's the ambience. It lacks the traditional Banana Leaf feel about it, as a majority of the restaurant is roofed and indoors. But at the same time, it is spotlessly clean and there are no insects, which is a trade off that the management had to make. However, the main selling point of this restaurant is definitely the food, and I rate it 5/5. Fantastic.

To answer my original question, Ravi's clearly stands out from the others with its modern look and supremely genuine food. Must-visit place for truly authentic banana leaf food. PRANAV RASTOGI



Sutraa

Changkat Bukit Bintang, KL.
Tel: 03 2144 7788

Before I went to eat at Sutraa I was a little confused. I had two friends who had visited, one who promised me it was an Indian restaurant, the other swearing blind it was a nightclub/bar. To be honest, even after eating there I'm not sure which it truly is.

In some cases – such as twentyone a few doors up - that doesn't really matter. But twentyone is an exception rather than the rule. A rule that Sutraa seems to adhere to. Much of the food was good, some very good. But lots more seemed to betray the fact that their owners are perhaps more concerned with selling bottles of whisky, rum and vodka to young folk looking to party. And the same could be said of the often inattentive staff and too-bold decoration.

But, lest this gets too negative, let's have a special word about their curries and specifically their gravies. Sutraa shares an owner with Pride of India and that expertise clearly shows in several of their creations. The thicker, North Indian curry dishes were rich and packed with flavour. The meat was well-cooked and, again, flavoursome, so - while I still pine for the likes of New Moghul House and the outlet formerly on the Sutraa lot, Ghazal - I'd still rather eat here than miss out on my Indian fix altogether, which is the sad situation facing Changkat Bukit Bintang diners. Especially given the continuing rise and new openings that seem to emerge almost weekly on that street. Michelle Whytcross



Bombay Spice

Lot LG, 233 The Gardens, Midvalley City,
59200 Kuala Lumpur.
Tel: 03-2287 4713

Warmth inducing and palette nourishing bursts of Indian food are sent your way in Bombay Spice. Although it may look small within the cluster of restaurants located on the connecting walkway of Gardens and Mid Valley, but it packs a punch in terms of what it offers. Fantastic selection of starters, the usual pot pourri of wonderful Indian mains and superb naans (I tend to judge an Indian restaurant on its naans).

On to the orders, we started with a soup. Yes, I know I’m at an Indian restaurant but who cares? Here the soups are known as shorba’s and my dining companion and myself had the chicken shorba. A thick broth, this was laced in turmeric and had generous portions of shredded chicken. Delicious. And a perfect change from the regular soups.

We had a variety of dishes to follow. Between us, we had the chicken tandoori, butter naan ( my standard order), hydrabadi biryani, prawn masala, baigan which is brinjal mashed, a dhal and spinach dish and chicken varuval. The naan had passed my judging factor and I knew the rest would be as good. The briyani is different from your regular biryani and not at all oily with healthy portions of meat. This is usually a preferred choice amongst many non-indians (including me!) because most of us are big biryani fans and this definitely will not disappoint you. The prawn masala had so much flavour to it whilst the vegetable dishes were cooked to the right consistency and weren’t overly spicy.

For dessert we had carrot halwa and gulab jamuns; two very common North Indian desserts. Not too sweet, this was just right to end an Indian meal full of spices. Each dish is a revelation, with its own spicing nuance, from the perennial favourites such as tandoori chicken and prawn sambal to something new from the constantly changing specials list like the ‘Indianised’ soups. Bombay Spice also sell’s Indian cutlery such as brass serving dishes and silver plates so if you’re in Gardens, this is the place to be!