SAMSARAA

Samsaraa 11 Jalan Sri Hartamas 7,
Sri Hartamas, Kuala Lumpur
Tel: 03–6201 5907

Although there have been notable exceptions—Nobu, the spectacular gastronomic collaboration between Robert de Niro and chef Matsuhisa Nobu, immediately springs to mind—celebrity-backed/owned restaurants by and large tend to be met with scepticism by an otherwise adoring public. In the case of Samsaraa however, it's very much the food that takes centre stage.

Owned by Malaysia's funniest funnyman Harith Iskander and his wife Jezamine, Samsaraa—literally meaning 'passing through'—is a delightful blend of retro cool and homely charm. Harlequin-checked tiles, mirrored ceilings, and a Corvette-red wall-to-wall banquette do much to add to the quirky aesthete of this otherwise unassuming eatery. The menu is (perhaps in homage to the couple's mixed parentage) a perky blend of local and western staples. The Clear Water Caesar Salad is a big draw, as is the creamy pumpkin and carrot soup replete with crunchy croutons.

Rather more robust in taste (and the purported bestseller and signature dish) is The Harith. Like the man himself, the chicken dish is sizeable and well worth the reasonable price tag. The recipes are rumoured to be a legacy from Harith's grandmother, and of these, the kampung roasted chicken, with its serai-ginger-chilli-santan-infused sauce, stands out, not least for its tasty unconventionality, and for its unusual—but well considered—accompaniments of a side of mashed sweet potatoes (which tastes suspiciously like pumpkin) and crunchy bok choy.

Quite apart from the appeal of Samsaraa's home-cooked temptations (and its mango cheesecake), its address in the 'old' area of Sri Hartamas—possibly the best kept secret in le toute KL and one of the most delightful places for an easy night out—makes it all the more a de rigueur place in which to dine.
FAY KHOO



ALBION

31 Jalan Berangan, KL
Tel: 03–2141 9282

If the spillover development in the surrounding area is any indication, it looks like the F&B phenomenon that is Changkat Bukit Bintang is here to stay, and stay for a while it will. Experiencing the same phoenix-from-the-ashes transformation, Jalan Berangan— parallel to CBB—is now home to Bar Italia, and Albion, a funky "modern British" bistro-bar that has the same contemporary minimalist-comfort setting that seems to be the calling card of many bistro-bars around the Klang valley today.

That's not to say it's a bad thing: the setting is studiedly simple, but the seats are cushy on the derriére, and the décor is extremely easy on the eye. Happily, there's much more to recommend Albion than just the finishings: obliging and attentive service staff who appear to have an inkling about the food they're serving, fair-ish food prices, and a thoughtful menu. And while items like chorizo à la plancha and spinach and ricotta dumplings are distinctly continental and just two from a handful of incontrovertibly un-British food items that punctuate the menu, the fact is they taste pleasant enough, so why be pedantic?

Because it's early days yet for Albion, consistency is a bit of a bugbear. Not all the food on the menu is equally good: the soup could have done with a bit more umami or oomph, and the soft shell crab with anchovy butter was a little less than three-dimensional, but a good rule-of-thumb is that the British items tend to be pretty good. Granted, the ubiquitous fish and chips could have done with a lot less batter, but the fish was fresh, flaky and tasty, while Albion's macaroni and cheese should win the "ultimate comfort food done well" trophy, not least because the generous additions of bacon and leek to the already voluptuous dish gave it the added verve it needed to graduate it from good to delicious.

Throw into the mix the fact that real bacon and a clutch of adroitly prepared cocktails are served here, and it's safe to predict that Albion will be a place to watch, and visit, for some time to come. Fay Khoo



Twenty One Tables + Terrace

3rd Floor, Bangsar Shopping Centre,
KL.
Tel: 03–2287 0021

www.drbar.asia

TWENTY-ONE TABLES + TERRACE IS the latest addition to the KL restaurant scene from the team of Richard Holland and Dan Thompson. On the third fl oor of Bangsar Shopping Centre, it is far more than a restaurant though. It is also a bar and club that exudes coolness and sophistication with an awesome open air view of Bangsar and the glittering KL skyline. Whether you are looking for dinner, cocktails or dancing (or perhaps it is a night for all three), twenty-one tables + terrace is well worth a visit and excels in all three categories. The lychee martini was a delightful, if slightly decadent, way to start the evening while poring over the menu that caters for every need, with options including 'snacktastic', 'fill me up' and 'finish me off'. I opted for the 'snacktastic' approach and the soft shell crab tempura with hoi sin dip was delicious and presented beautifully. The crisp beef and rice dumplings with a tomato ginger dip were equally good. For those taking the 'fill me up' route, the black cod in a mushroom broth with enoki and shinmeji mushrooms proved a winner, with other options on the menu including wagyu beef cheek with a confi t of leek and shallot or lamb shank slow cooked with salt roasted root celery, carrots and lamb glaze. The delights on the dessert menu were mouth-watering and I strongly recommend the baked dark chocolate ganache with warm chocolate cream and lemon curd. Service was slick, highly efficient and attentive and the food was presented immaculately. There is a great buzz to the restaurant and bar and to top it off, there is even a gentle breeze sweeping through the curved glass walls that are partially open to the elements. And for those concerned, the dining tables are a safe distance from the bar and DJ booth to ensure that you have a great dining experience without your table vibrating to the beat. LAURA WEBB



Teeq Lounge & Brasserie

Rooftop, Lot 10 Shopping Centre,
Kuala Lumpur
Tel: 03–2782 3555

Located on the rooftop of the Lot 10 shopping centre in the heart of KL, the recently opened lounge and brasserie Teeq, is a dining place where eastern and western cuisines meet. The restaurant offers a great selection of wines, as well as a variety of dishes cooked in Japanese, Western and Thai styles.

Asian-influenced cuisine and wine sound like a strange combination. However, Teeq seems to pull it off. The brasserie offers dishes from spicy Thai salads to succulent Australian beef dishes and sizzling Japanese teppanyaki. Teeq is definitely not a cocktail venue, though. The bar’s own “Kaffir mojito” with vodka, coconut rum, kaffir lime, lemon grass and wild ginger sounded tempting, but tasted more like tom yam soup than a refreshing drink.

The restaurant’s lounge area is surrounded by a relaxing, green space named “Forest in the city”, where one can even hear birds singing among the trees. Although the view from the rooftop cannot compete with Skybar’s or Lunabar’s, Teeq is still a cosy place to come and take in the KL skyline and enjoy a glass of wine or two.

Teeq’s interior is creatively designed—one can observe the cooks at work through the glass wall, decorated with empty wine bottles. The enthusiastic and chatty waiters were an interesting addition to the dining experience—one of them even decided to come and tell us about his political views as well as suggestions of good places for take-away chicken curry for only 50 sen. VEERA PITKANEN



Champ’s

Lot F10, Centrepoint, Lebuh Bandar Utama,
PJ
Tel: 03-7722 5800

Named after Richard (the proprietor)’s, dog, Champ’s has a homely charm. A popular haunt for those in the know in the Bandar Utama area?and that’s not just because of a dearth of other options!?it treads a fine line between kitsch fun nights out and daring culinary adventure, all the while serving ice cold beers and one of the better Guinnesses in the Klang Valley to their thirsty punters.

The menu can be defined partly by the juicy steaks cooked to your preference in a tiny glass-walled room that overlooks the bar. Or rather, the bar overlooks it, allowing drinkers the chance to ‘say when’, although there really is no need as putting your trust in the chef won’t set you far wrong and that’s part of the fun of eating out. However, great though the steaks are, you actually get a much better sense of what Champ’s is all about by a couple of other items on their menu.

Firstly, the spicy beer calamari chilli. The batter is whisked up from scratch, spiced to kingdom come and then lager is liberally poured into the mix before coating the squid and frying it all up. Think that’s appetising? Well it tastes at least five or six times better than it sounds.

Then, once you’ve munched through a couple of bowls of that (you can’t stop at one), order a few serves of the ‘Stingin’ Bacon’. Now here’s something. Wasabi coated top quality bacon bites that take the term ‘moorish’ to a whole new level. Bitter bar disputes can emerge over who gets the last mouthful of this unusual but divine little snack. So, to save arguments, make sure you keep your bowl well-stocked. If that means you have to order another Guinness or two to help you wash it all down, so be it. MATT BELLOTTI




Chinoz On The Park

Ground Floor Suria KLCC
Tel: 03-2166 8277

Sunday lunch was meant to be a chilled out one. I had planned it out; lunch at Chinoz and shopping in KLCC, convenient wouldn’t you say? You won’t miss this place as its right by the escalator facing the park (hence it’s name). With its chic décor and pleasant staff I was happy. A perfect start to a day of shopping!

I was told there were 2 menu’s; ala carte and a tasting menu. Although the tasting menu is only served in the evenings, I managed to persuade them into allowing me to order from there too. On the a la carte menu, Chinoz has a variety of sashimi but what’s different is crudo - an Italian version of marinated raw fish. For those who haven’t tried sashimi, this is tasty and something you’d choose again. Next we had black & white calamari fritters and a Chinoz platter of grilled vegetables, duck pastrami and feta cheese from the small plates section. The duck was lovely and didn’t have a ‘duckie’ taste as my dining companion pointed out. From the tasting menu, we had a Hokkaido scallop with cauliflower, foam and truffle and risotto with sautéed escargot and portebello mushroom confit. Absolutely delicious! The starters were all the right portions just as how it should be.

For the mains, we shared between us a rack of lamb, salmon trout and pasta. The lamb was tender served on a bed of potato gratin with a drizzle of lamb jus. I’m not much of a salmon fan but this dish served with beef bacon and lettuce was so fresh that every bite practically melts in your mouth. Our last dish was the pasta with French beans and rocket leaves unlike your usual pasta in meat sauce.

The desserts here are a joy on their own and received the oohs and aahs from us. We had churros otherwise known as the Spanish doughnut, this is fried and sprinkled with sugar and dipped in chocolate and a chocolate torte which was just heavenly. A perfect end for those looking for a sugar rush after a fantastic meal!




Chinoz

Lot G-212/KG-1, Ground Floor,
The Gardens Mall,
Mid Valley City,
Lingkaran Syed Putra,
59200 KL

Tel: 03-2287 8275

Forget, for a minute, any scientific evidence you may have heard to the contrary, but goldfish have two second memories. Which is why they don’t mind their fish-bowl homes. I, though, have a memory that lasts slightly longer than that. Which is probably why I was reluctant to try the new Chinoz restaurant located in the middle of the Gardens mall and open for every shopper to browse. And to compound issues, we were ushered, as a pair, not to the private looking central booths of the open-plan layout but instead to the dauntingly outer-edged tables-for-two. We could have sat ‘inside’, but the limited and ‘cosy’ seating looked cramped and frankly uninteresting. In contrast, the mid-court dining area appeared bright and, despite the exhibition potential, actually very comfortable. All good so far.

Our first disappointment, however, came with the menus. It seems Chinoz here shares more than a name with sister establishment Chinoz on the Park; the menu reflecting heavily (possibly completely) on the one in KLCC. Not a negative in terms of choice or substance then; only in originality. Nevertheless, we filed an order of hummus to start, along with an ‘Energiser’ smoothie (a mix of pineapple, apple, a dash of lemon and something suspiciously orange, probably carrot), and a simple orange juice. For mains would be a linguine salmon dish and a chicken and leek pie.

They didn’t disappoint. The hummus was light, fresh and a spot-on introduction to the meal. The drinks were equally refreshing with the smoothie full of flavour if not quite cool enough, and the orange juice clearly pressed on demand. Hopes were now high for the mains.

Service was perhaps a little too prompt (an unusual complaint, I know) with the dishes arriving the moment the last pita scooped a serving of hummus. The wafting aroma of the pie’s accompanying gravy quelled that discrepancy though and its full, yet not over-filling, taste matched the crisp pastry, chicken and leek brilliantly. The story was similar for the pasta. If slightly dry, the dish combined well-cooked salmon with a light and subtle cream sauce. Very good, but not a patch on the pie.

It’ll be with ease therefore that on my next visit (and I’ll be back soon) I’ll place a confident order for one superbly cooked chicken and leek pie. Thank you very much.