Expatriate Lifestyle

SINCE ITS reincarnation into KL's sparkling new F&B crown thanks to a major revamp, Bangsar Shopping Centre (BSC) is all a-glow with top-notch eateries and bars. And just when it seemed that it had become virtually impossible to find something new to 'ooh' and 'aah' about, along arrived The Press Room, a pert, tidy little eatery-bar that draws its inspiration from the European café society at the close of the last century. Two words sum it up: alarmingly irresistible.

A very chic Parisian sensibility pervades the décor, but with a sting to its tail. Knowing architect Nic Proud's oeuvre, this was cunningly planned, so that rather than appearing a contrived replica of a Parisian brasserie, The Press Room instead has a cheeky, rather more contemporary, feel to it. Apart from the traditional banquettes, there is a common dining table; it's definitely the preferred seat in the house, because the overhead chandelier with pendulous crystal pieces provides for salacious adult conversation with delicious double-entendres while waiting for nibbles to arrive. Polished hardwood floors also imbue the outlet with a pedigree that is distinctly lacking in the severely modern interiors of its neighbours.

Though it bills itself as serving a menu of "hearty, delicious Anglo-French fare", all the classic French brasserie staples are vociferously present, each jostling with the other for attention, and each one as deserving as the other for credit. The food really is that good. From the outset, a caramelised red onion and goat cheese tart mesmerizes with delicately insinuating flavours, but it is important to exercise restraint as the flavours continue to crescendo as one trots through the courses (note to self: while undeniably more-ish, the nibbles, cheesy bites and tapenade are the devil's work and should be removed after everyone has had a taste. Or three).

The duck confit is one of the best in KL: the skin is perfectly salted and ir-reproachably crispy, and the unctuously voluptuous meat is eloquently juxtaposed by the rosti and sautéed cepes. From what I have sampled from reluctant friends' plates, the rest of the menu is just as divine. Like a bride with a considerable trousseau, The Press Room offers several menus throughout the day. A breakfast menu is followed at 11.30am by an all-day café menu and classic English afternoon high tea from 3pm. The aforementioned "Anglo-French fare" menu is served at lunch and dinner. A final piece of advice: book. The secret's out. FAY KHOO